Healthy roses

Garden Life
The favorite flower of many garden lovers, the rose with its beautiful blossom transforms every garden into a small paradise. The rose bloom reaches its first peak in June; it is no coincidence that this summer month is often referred to colloquially as the “month of the rose”. Reason enough, then, to dedicate plenty of time to your roses.

Selecting varieties

In selecting the variety, ideally choose roses that maintain a healthy petal — after all, who wants to have to spray in their own garden? There are some particularly healthy rose breeds among the over 150 ADR roses (for more information, see ). These varieties will give you plenty of enjoyment provided they are planted in a suitable location where they can Bloom.


The optimum location for roses is a deep, slightly alkaline, sandy clay or clay-like sandy soil. It must have a slight amount of humus with a medium to high nutrient supply because richly blooming varieties have a lot of mass. Also, the ideal location must not be waterlogged or cool. Roses are particularly happy in sunny and well-ventilated locations where they can dry quickly after rain and dew. They also need ventilated locations so that their petals can continue to show all their healthy promise. They do not like long shadows. When planting, make sure that the roses have sufficient distance from other roses and neighboring plants such as perennials. Rose beds should also not be bounded too closely by other woody shrubs.


Roses consume a lot of energy because they form so many shoots, leaves, and flowers. With a mineral fertiliser, i.e. a complete fertiliser, apply 30-40 grams per square meter when budding in mid-April, and after the first flowering in mid to late June. If you use compost for fertilising, use two liters per square meter, and fertilise three weeks earlier. 

If wild shoots grow that expel the rootstock, these should be removed to ensure the rose does not grow into a shrub rose. Dig out the shoots down to the point of growth, and then tear them out. If these are only cut, bushy shoots occurs. When removing faded flowers, you should always also remove at least the first two pinnae that follow the bloom. If you only remove the flower heads, the new shoots and flowers of the rose will be blocked. 

Before winter arrives, prune the roses by about a third. The fine cut then follows in March/April before sprouting. Winter protection of the roses, also known as “earthing up” should not be carried out either with potting soil or with bark mulch. “Earthing up” using garden soil is better for the roses, otherwise the plant may easily be prone to frost damage. To cover the roses, it is better to use spruce rather than pine branches.

Rose diseases

Black spot, characterized by black spots surrounded by yellow spots, and mildew are among the rose’s main enemies. A distinction is made between powdery mildew, which can be seen on the petals, and downy mildew that forms under the petals. However, aphids can also cause serious harm to roses. Therefore, small infestations of lice or mildew should simply be cut out, or the lice should be stripped off. Be careful when using chemicals to control aphids during bird breeding season. Adult birds may feed poisoned lice to their young causing them to die. Erecting a few bird houses in any gardens that are inhabited by tits, sparrows, or redstarts can also provide help against aphids! 

Environmentally friendly rose sprays can be found here:
From one application to the next, it is important to switch the active ingredient of the plant protection product; this means not only changing the product, but actually changing the active ingredient of the product, which can be found on the packaging. This prevents individual strains of fungi from developing resistances to an active ingredient. When protecting plants, make sure the branches and the ground are dripping wet. First, ensure those petals that are infested with black spot are raked from the soil bed, as these carry spores for subsequent infections. 

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