The optimum location for roses is a deep, slightly alkaline, sandy clay or clay-like sandy soil. It must have a slight amount of humus with a medium to high nutrient supply because richly blooming varieties have a lot of mass. Also, the ideal location must not be waterlogged or cool. Roses are particularly happy in sunny and well-ventilated locations where they can dry quickly after rain and dew. They also need ventilated locations so that their petals can continue to show all their healthy promise. They do not like long shadows. When planting, make sure that the roses have sufficient distance from other roses and neighboring plants such as perennials. Rose beds should also not be bounded too closely by other woody shrubs.
Roses consume a lot of energy because they form so many shoots, leaves, and flowers. With a mineral fertiliser, i.e. a complete fertiliser, apply 30-40 grams per square meter when budding in mid-April, and after the first flowering in mid to late June. If you use compost for fertilising, use two liters per square meter, and fertilise three weeks earlier.
If wild shoots grow that expel the rootstock, these should be removed to ensure the rose does not grow into a shrub rose. Dig out the shoots down to the point of growth, and then tear them out. If these are only cut, bushy shoots occurs. When removing faded flowers, you should always also remove at least the first two pinnae that follow the bloom. If you only remove the flower heads, the new shoots and flowers of the rose will be blocked.
Before winter arrives, prune the roses by about a third. The fine cut then follows in March/April before sprouting. Winter protection of the roses, also known as “earthing up” should not be carried out either with potting soil or with bark mulch. “Earthing up” using garden soil is better for the roses, otherwise the plant may easily be prone to frost damage. To cover the roses, it is better to use spruce rather than pine branches.