The GARDENA gardening expert
For the yews, two cutting periods are interesting, Ms. R.: For one, the oncoming advent season when you would like to use greenery for flower arrangements and wreaths. Also, the cuttings can be used to cover roses (winter protection). Overall, definitely keep the greenery away from animals (also no organic waste!) which could be eaten (deadly poisonous).
The second cutting period is in the early spring, around the swelling of the male buds (yellow “buds” on the branch) before they open and release pollen. Then namely, the new growth follows thereafter so that the cut is soon no longer apparent.
You could cut rambler roses but it is not necessary. They are planted because of their lush growth and their stunning splendour. For this reason, they should look wild and exuberant. But too much is simply too much – and you could cut this to your heart’s desire and needs. But, rambler roses are not cut as close as other climbing roses.
Wisteria should be cut twice a year. Make the distinction between long shoots and dwarf shoots. Long shoots are very thick growing vines, mostly as shoot extensions. Dwarf shoots grow noticeably weaker and are always lateral shoots from long shoots. The dwarf shoots are the ones which have the flowers. Cut the dwarf shoots about two months after blooming down to approximately a half metre or shorter. If this young shoot sprouts again, break these lateral shoots off at first appearance. After this summer cut, the winter cut follows in late winter. Now shorten the already roughly cut dwarf shoots to about three to five buds. On the base of the dwarf shoot, you will recognise the round flower bud that can be easily distinguished from the pointed leaf bud. Similar to those fruit bearing dwarf shoots of apples and pears, the flower dwarf shoots of the wisteria will also become thicker and have fewer blooms after every flowering. Therefore, remove these after several years and draw out new young flowering shoots in the described way.