Location: full sun to half shade, but protected, especially against late frost; loose, humus-rich, loamy, slightly acidic sandy soil (pH 5.5-6.5) is ideal for strawberry cultivation
Successful care of strawberries:
Planting season: from July to September for summer planting, from mid-March to mid-May for spring planting. The following applies: the earlier you plant during these periods, the stronger the seedlings develop and the better the yield achieved.
Plant spacing: 20-30 cm in a row, with 50-80 cm row spacing; or calculated another way: 25 strawberry plants require approx. 6 m2 bed area. A bed width of 120 centimetres is comfortable, as with the length of your arm of approx. 60 centimetres you can easily reach the middle of the bed from both sides.
Watering: after planting, continually until they take root; in spring, keep evenly moist from budding until fructification; never wet the leaves, fruits and “heart” when watering
Fertilisation: strawberries are sensitive to salt and therefore better fertilised organically instead of with mineral fertiliser; do not administer too much nitrogen, so that the plants do not mainly run to leaf – at the expense of less flower formation. Therefore, always fertilise strongly with phosphorus and potassium; first fertilisation approximately three weeks after planting (with onset of budding), second dosage in August/September (after the harvest but before budding for the following year); in each case, gently work 50-70 g/m2 of organic berry fertiliser into the soil
Cutting: remove tendrils of garden strawberries (not hanging or climbing strawberries!) in good time; if necessary cutting of foliage after the harvest; in any case before September: remove old red, diseased and dry leaves (“outer crown”)
Winter protection: in exposed positions, place protective fleece on top
Special care measures: at the latest with a risk of black and late frosts, cover with a fleece, especially from budding in spring onwards; place straw or wood shavings under ripe fruits; with constantly bearing varieties with autumnal frost, remove the last buds
Tip: If you take offshoots from your strawberries, then preferably the strong, already rooted seedlings which are nearest to the offshoot of the mother plant. With increasing length of the offshoot, the seedlings growing on it are namely less well developed at the time of replanting. Do not re-plant the seedlings too shallow or too deep – the “heart” must protrude from the soil.